We center our production in the region north of Porto for a practical reason. This area has all the core footwear suppliers nearby. The tanneries, the toolmakers, and the assembly factories all exist within the same radius. This density creates a specific manufacturing culture. The people on our line possess motor skills refined over decades of daily repetition. When you handle our sneakers, you are feeling that accumulated experience.
Here is how our factory works to make your sneakers:
1. Cutting the leather
We use full-grain calfskin for the uppers. This material offers superior durability and grain structure, for longer lasting shoes that age beautifully. But it is also what our craftsmen prefer to work with. It is simply easier to work with great materials. A cutter places the metal dies (cutting molds) on the cleanest, strongest sections of the hide, while ensuring minimal waste. A hydraulic press stamps the metal dies to cut the leather.
2. Sewing the upper
The cut pieces move to the stitching room to become the "upper," or the body of the shoe. Stitching is highly technical. The operator has to guide the leather through the machine, turning flat shapes into a three-dimensional shell. They have to manage the tension constantly. If they pull too hard, the leather puckers. If they are too loose, the seams look sloppy. It takes years of experience to sew a curve that sits perfectly smooth against the foot. The workforce in this region is aging, and true mastery often resides with the older generation who have spent forty years at a machine. Finding seamstresses who can execute these technical patterns is increasingly difficult as fewer apprentices enter the trade. We are grateful for our customers who help us keep this trade in business.
3. The Last
The "last" is a solid mold that mimics the human foot. The last defines the shoe's volume and fit. During the "lasting" phase, the stitched upper is heated and pulled tightly over this mold. This process forces the leather to conform to the specific shape of the last. We keep the shoe under tension on the mold for a set duration. This curing period locks the shape in permanently, preventing the shoe from collapsing or deforming after heavy wear.
4. Attaching the sole
We utilize a stitched cup-sole construction. The rubber outsole features high sidewalls that cup the bottom of the leather upper. Adhesive secures the sole for initial placement. We then run a heavy-gauge stitch through the rubber sidewall directly into the leather. This mechanical bond creates a permanent attachment that resists separation far better than glue alone. Our stitched cup-sole construction offers superior durability, especially at high-friction areas like the heel and toe, where the solid rubber part makes contact. This contrasts with the cheap vulcanized construction popular in Asia, where the glue is located directly at these points of highest friction.
5. Finishing
The final step creates the character. We finish ours by hand. We use a rotary brush to carefully scuff the leather. Wax is applied to the outsole to give them a worn look. This creates our signature distressed look, resulting in a sneaker that feels authentic and lived-in the moment you open the box. Finally, we apply a protective spray and run a rigorous quality check to ensure everything is tight before they ship out.